Lapierre Raisins Gaulois Gamay 2020
£14.50
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Story
In 1981, Marcel Lapierre’s path would be forever changed by Jules Chauvet, a man whom many now call his spiritual godfather. Chauvet was a winemaker, a researcher, a chemist, and a viticultural prophet. It was he who, upon the advent of chemical fertilizers and pesticides in the 1950s, first spoke out for “natural wine,” harkening back to the traditional methods of the Beaujolais. Joined by local vignerons Guy Breton, Jean-Paul Thévenet, and Jean Foillard, Marcel spearheaded a group that soon took up the torch of this movement. Kermit dubbed this clan the Gang of Four, and the name has stuck ever since. These rebels called for a return to the old practices of viticulture and vinification: starting with old vines, never using synthetic herbicides or pesticides, harvesting late, rigorously sorting to remove all but the healthiest grapes, adding minimal doses of sulfur dioxide or none at all, and disdaining chaptalization. Sadly, the end of the 2010 vintage was Marcel’s last. He passed away at the end of the harvest—a poetic farewell for a man that forever changed our perception of Beaujolais. His son Mathieu (son) Marie (Mother) confidently continue the great work that their father pioneered, now introducing biodynamic vineyard practices, as well as vegan wine while ensuring that Marcel’s legacy lives on.
The methods at Lapierre are just as revolutionary as they are traditional; the detail and precision with which they work are striking and entirely different from the mass-produced majority of Beaujolais on the market today. Decomposed granite comprises most of their eleven hectares, and the vines are an average of 45 years of age. Grapes are picked at the last possible moment to obtain the ripest fruit, which is a trademark of the estate style. The Lapierre’s age their wines on fine lees for at least nine months in oak foudres and fûts ranging from three to thirteen years old. These wines are the essence of Morgon: bright, fleshy fruit with a palatable joie de vivre that was undoubtedly inherited from their creator.
The Lapierre Raisins Gaulois Gamay organic red wine takes the Vin de France appellation because the Beaujolais’ governing body decided to do away with the Vin de Pays designation in Beaujolais, leaving only the appellations and Vin de France. The wine is still almost all from the cru of Morgon, with a little bit of A.O.C. Beaujolais as well. Ruby in colour and packed with dried cranberry and red currant fruit. This is a lovely, refreshing grapey Gamay with lively acidity. Pairs well with most things but is ideal with barbecued meats or cold cuts.
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